FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions at FibreGlassDIrect

To answer this question in a lot of detail, we have created a comprehensive guide in our how-to section which is available to read on our website.

If the area has an old layer of Topcoat which you wish to refresh there is no need to prime the area with a product such as G4 for example. You will, however, need to sand down the area, wipe down with Acetone and reapply a new layer of Topcoat/GRP materials if required.

When applying a topcoat after laminating, apply between 500 and 550g per m². Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator. For Fibreglass Roofing applications, this should increase to 600g per m².

When applying Gelocat to a mould, apply between 500 and 550g per m². Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator

Gelcoat is not a finishing coat; it is painted onto moulds/plugs and remains tacky after it cures. Resin and Glass are generally applied on top of the Gelcoat. It forms the hard, smooth shiny surface of the finished article and is usually pigmented. It paints on easily but does not drain from vertical surfaces. Use Topcoat if a finishing paint is... Read more

We have written down our top tips on adding a fibreglass lining to a concrete pond. These comprehensive guidelines will ensure you get the best results from your materials. Read about it here. 

Use our pond calculator to calculate the surface area of your pond. You should then buy the next available size, so say for example your Pond Surface Area is 18m², you should buy a 20m² kit. For a full range of our Pond kits click here. 

Provided there is no structural damage to the roof, a new layer of topcoat may be applied. For a cosmetic refresh, simply sand back the existing layer of topcoat and wipe down with acetone. This will prep the area and give the new layer of topcoat something to adhere to. Once prepped, the new layer of Roofing Topcoat can be applied.

In this instance, a fibreglass roof kit may be used to complete the repair. The first step would be to sand back the exisiting surface to expose the fibreglass and then clean with acetone. Measure the amount of fibreglass mat you will need. Cut your new fibreglass mat into strips of an appropriate width for covering over the cracks. Ensure there is an overlap of 50mm either side of the crack. Apply a wet coat of resin to the surface and bed down the new matting. Ensure the glass is completely wet through with resin (it will go transparent). Taking a paddle roller, consolidate the... Read more

Before starting laminating, ensure that the weather conditions will be acceptable. Do not lay the roof if rain is forecasted. Temperatures should be at least 15°C to allow the resin to cure. If the temperature is too hot (over 25°C) the resin will cure too quickly.

• Sweep down the roof to remove any debris. We start by bandaging the joints, trims and corners.
• If you are not using T&G, the joints in the decking should be... Read more

The answer is yes, with a bit of work! Depending on the trim, in most cases you will need to sand the strip of existing fibreglass where the new trim will be placed right back to the board. The new trim can then be fitted. Once the trim is secure a layer of fibreglass will need to applied over the new trim. This will ensure the roof remains water tight.

Whilst we would recommend GRP Trims with a fibreglass roof (the fibreglass will bond better). If you decide to use lead or metal trims, ensure the lead or metal is clean and free from contaminants. Use G4 sealer when overlapping with the fibreglass.

• Sand an area of about 50mm around the crack using rough grit sandpaper to create a key. Clean down with acetone.
• Cut a piece of 450g chopped strand mat the same size as the area sanded. Cut a second piece of 450g chopped strand mat slightly smaller.
• Mix resin and catalyst. Brush on the resin to the area and apply the larger piece of glass. Applied more resin until the glass is fully wetted out. Apply the second layer of glass and wet out with resin using a brush. Allow the resin to cure.
• Once cured give the area a light sanding to remove any glass... Read more

It is recommended that 15mm galvanised clout nail is used or s/s staples that will sit flush with the roof.

Roof trims should be measured and cut to size with a 'snips' (to reduce dust). A dab of roofing adhesive should be applied to the batons to prevent rattling in the wind. Roof trims should then be either stapled with s/s staples of nailed using 15mm clout nails into place every 120-150mm. Where two trims have to be joined together, ensure an overlap of 50mm and apply roofing adhesive to seal.

A drip trim is placed at the lowest edge of the roof and is used to allow the water to runoff into a gutter. A raised edge trim is used to prevent the water runoff.

• A200 is a fascia trim for allowing drainage into a gutter. Compatible with C1 C2 and C4 corner trims
• B260 is a raised edge trim which prevents water runoff. Compatible with C1 C2 and C4 corner trims
• A200 and the B260 are compatible with each other
• A250 and B300 - A250 is a fascia trim for allowing drainage into a gutter & the B300 is a raised edge trim which prevents water runoff

Yes, this Resin may be used for casting penneys onto a table. If using a glass table, great care should be taken with regards to the heat which is generated during the curing process to avoid any cracks in the glass. We recommend several pours, ensuring the previous pour is cool to the touch before adding the next pour. The resin will cure tacky, so once cured the top layer will need to be sanded back and compound paste used for shine. A clear lacquer may also be used to prevent scuffs and scratches. We have made a video detailing the process and it isRead more