Yes, we can arrange to have an invoice sent by our accounts department. Please fill in our short contact form with your details and a member of our team will respond without delay. 

We always aim to get your order to you as quickly as possible. Estimated delivery time is 2-3 working days from day of dispatch. Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee next day delivery.

(Product Price + delivery) + VAT at 20% = total cost

The cost of the delivery is calculated according to the weight of the order, the delivery location and the classification of the order (non-hazardous, hazardous and limited quantity). All items are despatched by courier with the exception of small items (non-hazardous items), which are sent via Royal Mail. See the Shipping/Returns page for further information. 

For all orders received, we will endeavour to dispatch your order by the following working day and delivered within 2-3 days. For urgent delivery assistance please contact a member of our sales team direct through email or phone. 

Yes, as most of our products are classed as hazardous they must be signed for. The exception to this is if the customer specifically asks for the goods to be left at an alternative location when making an order which is at their own risk.

Currently, we only ship to Mainland UK, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. If you are looking for fibreglass materials to be shipped to other countries, please contact our team for a quote.

As our goods are considered hazardous, delivery costs overseas are often very expensive. If you prefer you can appoint a courier to collect the goods at any of our depots and arrange your own transportation. 

To track your order, use our order tracking form and we will contact you as soon as possible with an update on your order. 

TriCast 10 is a fast cure and can only be poured at a max 10mm. It has a simple mixing ratio of 2:1 so for every 1kg of Part A (Resin), you add 0.5kg of Part B (Catalyst).

Unfortunately, our Chopped Strands or Choppies as they are often referred to are not Alkali Resistant.

Generally speaking, for Polyester Resins, the mixing ratio is 2% i.e. 20ml for every 1kg of Resin in working conditions at room temperature. For the Water Clear Casting Polyester Resin, this drops to 1.5% or 15ml for every 1kg. In colder working temperatures you may wish to increase the catalyst addition to 3% but definitely, no more than 4% to speed up the curing process. Similarly, in warmer temperatures, you may wish to reduce the amount of catalyst to extend the pot life of your resin. In this case, you should not go below 1%.  To ensure accuracy, please refer to the TDS of each resin which will detail cure times.  Epoxy resins are treated very differently and work on a ratio e.g. 1:1. Please refer to the TDS and MSDS attachments which are available on each product page as each Epoxy Resin will vary. If in doubt, don't hesitate to contact our team who would be happy to... Read more

This depends on the temperature of your working conditions and how much catalyst has been incorporated into the mix. Warmer temperatures will reduce your curing time and colder temperatures will increase the length of cure.  Likewise, adding extra catalyst will speed up the curing process - often necessary for colder temperatures and reducing catalyst will reduce curing - again often necessary during warmer temperatures. We would recommend mixing no more than 1.5 - 2kg at a time. Once the resin and catalyst are mixed, the curing process will begin and you are working against the clock to get the resin applied - usually no more than 20 minutes. Only mix as much as you need.  Epoxy Resin is mixed on a ratio basis and should not be altered. Room temperature is the ideal scenario for curing. Each resin type will differ so we would always recommend referring to the MSDS and TDS available on each product listing before use.  Although some resins may be hard to the touch after 24 hours, some may not be fully cured for up to 3 days. Again, this information will be available on the product Technical Data Sheet... Read more

We would recommend a clear epoxy resin for this purpose as the epoxy has less shrinkage than the polyester version.

There are a couple of different options and finishes that you can opt for when skinning a kayak like this. First of all, you could use a layer of 450g fibreglass matting and Lloyd's approved resin. Once cured you could then apply a standard polyester topcoat. All of these materials are included with our Universal Fibreglass Kit. If you wanted a smoother look (to avoid the look of the glass fibres coming through), you could apply a layer of surface tissue on top of the resin while it is still wet, prior to the topcoat application.  Alternatively, you could opt for a couple of layers of the Woven Glass Fibre Cloth instead of the Fibreglass Matting. This can also be used with Lloyd's Approved Resin, followed by Topcoat once... Read more

The second layer can be applied while the first layer is still wet. Not only will you complete your project a lot faster but you will use a lot less resin too!

The shelf life of Catalyst is approximately 6 months. It is important that the catalyst is stored in its original packaging in a cool, dry location away from sunlight. As Catalyst is an extremely flammable chemical, it is important to refer to MSDS and TDS sheets before use.

Unfortunately, Polyester Resin cannot be used on Polystyrene as it will eat into it! An Epoxy Resin would be better suited for this application.

None of our Polyester Resins / Topcoats on FibreGlassDirect require a wax additive to harden. Catalyst is the only thing required and this is supplied with all Resins.

We recommend that up to 10mm of Clear Resin should be poured at any one time before pouring the next layer. If doing multiple pours of clear casting resin, great care should be taken in regards to the heat that is generated with each pour. Before each pour, it is best to ensure the first pour has cooled (and is cool to the touch) before adding the next batch of resin.

Yes, all Resins, Topcoats and Gelcoats sold by FibreGlassDirect are supplied with sufficient catalyst. 

We would recommend priming the lead with a G4 Damp Seal first. G4 should be thinly applied with a brush or roller and allowed to tack before applying the resin and chopped strand matting. 

When it first comes it is fully sealed so you snap off the top. The outside is threaded so if you flip the cap you will see the threads are on the opposite side. The cap will screw back on then to re-seal. 

Our Low-Cost General Purpose Resin is a re-blended resin which is suitable for non-critical DIY repairs (such as downpipe repairs etc.) Lloyds Approved Resin is a higher quality Polyester Resin which has been tested and approved by the Lloyds Register. It can be used for potable water storage projects, marine, pond and boat repairs. It is also WRAS Approved. Both are polyester resins.

For most resins, add 2% by weight, i.e. 1kg of resin requires 20g of Catalyst (based on room temperature). Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator For Clear Casting Resin the catalyst addition is 1%.  

For colder conditions, more catalyst may need to be mixed into the resin to ensure a cure. In the winter months, our Roofing Kits will increase from 2% catalyst addition to 3%. Likewise, in warmer climates, less catalyst may be needed (or smaller batches mixed) as warmer temperatures will decrease the working times of your resin. 

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Work out how much Glass you have by weight and multiply by 2.5. i.e. for 2kg of fibreglass mat, you will require 5kg of resin. Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator. Roofing applications may require more resin if the resin is applied to OSB3 boards as the boards will soak more resin. Our materials calculator will give exact requirements depending on application e.g. Roofing, Pond Lining or General Fibreglass Projects.

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Yes, our Polyester Topcoat is safe for use for Ponds. It is important to let the Styrene completely evaporate from the Topcoat before re-introducing the fish to the Pond. 

The expected coverage of the Standard Polyester Topcoat and Gelcoat is 500g per square metre.

This depends on the type of mould you are trying to make (male or female). In this case, it sounds like you need a gelcoat rather than a topcoat. Please refer to our guide on making a mould which will detail the mould making process.

To answer this question in a lot of detail, we have created a comprehensive guide in our how-to section which is available to read on our website.

If the area has an old layer of Topcoat which you wish to refresh there is no need to prime the area with a product such as G4 for example. You will, however, need to sand down the area, wipe down with Acetone and reapply a new layer of Topcoat/GRP materials if required.

When applying a topcoat after laminating, apply between 500 and 550g per m². Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator. For Fibreglass Roofing applications, this should increase to 600g per m².

When applying Gelcoat to a mould, apply between 500 and 550g per m². Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator.

Gelcoat is not a finishing coat; it is painted onto moulds/plugs and remains tacky after it cures. Resin and Glass are generally applied on top of the Gelcoat. It forms the hard, smooth shiny surface of the finished article and is usually pigmented. It paints on easily but does not drain from vertical surfaces. Use Topcoat if a finishing paint is required.

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If you are lining the inside of the tank, then we would recommend below You might scuff the entire surface and brush it out and clean it with acetone. If looking to reinforce, then apply a new layer of 450g matting with Lloyds-approved resin and consolidate well, ensuring no creases, air pockets, or dry spots. To have a finer finish, apply 1 layer of 30g surface tissue on to wet laminate and again gently roll until free of creases, air pockets, etc. Allow to cure, then sand to key. Brush off and clean with acetone. Mix and apply a new layer of Topcoat. Then allow to cure for 4 days, then rinse with light soapy water. Rinse off and refill for... Read more

Using fibreglass to seal a pond made from wood and concrete? Question: I'm constructing a pond out of wooden sleepers; will be a 3m rectangle with a concrete base. Was going to use a traditional pub liner however I'm now wondering about using fibreglass. Is the product suitable for wooden walls or is brick only? FibreGlassDirect Advice:You can use the fibreglass on a wooden structure but we would advise that you used an 18mm OSB3 board inside the sleepers to fibreglass on to. A concrete base would need G4 primer (30mins before fibreglass application).   Steps to waterproofing a wooden and concrete pond with fibreglass: Line inside of sleepers with OSB3 BOARD Fibreglass bandage with resin on all board joints Apply 1 layer of 450g matting to the OSB3 board with resin, (you will need to allow 1.5kg of resin per sqm on the boards), ensuring to consolidate the laminate and remove any creases or air pockets To do the floor, you will need to apply G4 Primer / Sealer working 2 sqm at a time to the concrete and allow to go tacky (25-30mins) Whilst still tacky get a layer of 450g laminated over the tacky area. We recommend doing an area 1m right around the perimeter and if possible turning up against the walls Repeat process to remainder of floor and allow to cure Scuff the entire surface with a sanding block or sander using an 80 grit paper, brush off clean with acetone Begin to lay up of 2nd layer of 450g matting and resin (1kg of resin per sqm) Stagger the start to ensure overlap of joints Apply second layer working 2sqm at a time, consolidate well as per previous Whilst 2nd layer is still wet, you can apply a layer of surface tissue and roll on gently into the wet surface (this will provide a finer finish) Continue repeating the process until 2nd layer is complete Allow to cure and then scuff, brush and clean with acetone Mix and apply your topcoat   Leave with a temporary covering if possible to protect from rain/dampness for 2-3 days, then rinse down and fill the pond. Leave for 3-4 days, drain off and then rinse and refill.   Ready for... Read more

Yes, our Polyester Topcoat is safe for use for Ponds. It is important to let the Styrene completely evaporate from the Topcoat before re-introducing the fish to the Pond. 

We have written down our top tips on adding a fibreglass lining to a concrete pond. These comprehensive guidelines will ensure you get the best results from your materials. Read about it here. 

Use our pond calculator to calculate the surface area of your pond. You should then buy the next available size, so say for example your Pond Surface Area is 18m², you should buy a 20m² kit. For a full range of our Pond kits click here. 

The best option to repair the roof, is to sand/scuff the area around the crack with an 80 frit sandpaper, allowing 50mm min beyond the edges of the crack. This will key surface. Clean down with acetone. If the crack is very open and frayed, then cut back the edges completely to expose the board underneath. Again sand the surface of the board with sandpaper, clean off the dust and wipe with acetone. Apply a layer of glass strip over the crack again 50mm wider than the actual crack area, and laminate with resin. Ensure to consolidate well, making sure no air pockets or creases appear. This should adhere the glass to the surface underneath and around the edges. Once cured, you may require an additional layer as above, again go 50mm beyond the previous and laminate as above. Allow to cure again and then scuff surface lightly to key. Clean again with acetone and mix and apply and Topcoat to... Read more

Question: It's my first time repairing a fibreglass roof and I have some questions: What do you do with the Topcoat? If doing a roof for the first time would it be advisable to apply two layers of matting? When fitting the OSB, is it fitted tight or should I leave a gap or tongue & grooved? Answer: If you are doing a new roof, we would always recommend you use 18mm T&G OSB3 boards, they need to be fitted as per manufacturer instruction so should have expansion against any walls of 10-20mm.For general weatherproofing, 1 layer of 450g matting is sufficient but if there will be any moderate foot traffic in the future, then use 1 x 600g layer of matting. In the event of a roof balcony, roof garden or additional loading then 2 x 450g layers of matting would be required. Resin consumption for fibreglass onto OSB is: 1.5kg for 450g 2kg for 600g followed by 1kg or 1.5kg for second layers where appropriate With regard to Topcoat, coverage is 500-600g per sqm. When redoing an existing roof, you should scuff/sand the existing surface to key, brush down and clean with acetone prior to mixing and then apply the Topcoat. For best results on Topcoat, you should apply it with a Mohair... Read more

There could be several different reasons as to why the Topcoat on your Roof has started to crack. Here are the most common reasons that we come across: 1. OSB Boards The osb3 should be laid upside down on the rough side writing showing upwards. This should leave a 2-millimeter gap between the structure of the board. No materials should be applied to the shiny side of the osb3. 2. Topcoat Applied too Thick The dark grey topcoat may have been applied too thick. The installer may have also not sanded and/or wiped down with acetone before application this will cause clanging and banging. Any thicker than half a millimetre of topcoat applied will crack. 3. Roof... Read more

We would always recommend coverage of 600g per square metre for roofing applications.

In short, yes. Fibreglass can be applied to a pitched roof. Although fibreglass is most commonly known in the market for flat roofing, fibreglass can be applied vertically also.

Unfortunately, you cannot apply the Flex (or any Polyester Resin) directly to the Bitumen Roof. This type of Polyester Resin will not adhere to Bitumen. The Roof would need to be stripped back and applied to OSB3 Board.

Quite simply put, it’s down to the quality of the materials. Our Fibreglass Roof Kits have been sold for 30 years throughout the UK and Ireland. We have only ever bought from trusted composite manufacturers who supply material that we have rigorously tested. What is contained in the Fibreglass Roof Kits? In our Roof Kits, you will never find a re-blended resin. This is often supplied by other companies in a bid to lower prices. As we cannot guarantee the quality for such a critical project, we offer a Lloyd’s Approved, a certified resin in our Standard Fibreglass Roof Kits and a Premium Flex Roofing Resin in our Premium Fibreglass Roof Kits. Our Premium Kits are also supplied with a Fire-Retardant Roofing Topcoat for additional peace of mind. This is particularly important for residential roofing applications or structures that will house hazardous materials. The certificate for this fire retardancy testing is available to view on our website. In addition to the quality of the materials supplied, an additional point to note is the quantity we supply. At FibreGlassDirect we offer 1.5kg of resin per square metre in our 450g Fibreglass Roofing Kits to allow for soakage into OSB Boards. We offer 2kg per square metre in our 600g Fibreglass Roof Kits to allow to soakage too. Topcoat for both options (450g & 600g) topcoat is supplied at 0.6kg per square metre, allowing for plenty of coverage. The only thing not allocated in our kits are Fibreglass Roof Trims, Glass Bandage Roll and Acetone. We have left these out as to not increase the price of the kits unnecessarily. Trims are entirely dependant on the shape and size of the roof and will, therefore, vary quite a lot. Acetone is something we do supply on FibreGlassDirect but is not directly needed by every customer so we have left this as an optional extra. More information on Fibreglass Roof Kits If you would like more information from our team, please do not hesitate to get in... Read more

Yes, a Fibreglass Roof can be walked on. Depending on the volume of foot traffic expected for the roof to take, this will determine the weight of matting that should be used in the construction of the roof. A roof with little to no foot traffic expected would suit 1 layer of 450g matting, a moderate level of foot traffic should use 1 layer of 600g matting and a balcony or a roof with regular foot traffic should use 2 layers of 450g matting. A non-slip Topcoat is also highly recommended for areas with foot traffic requirements. 

In short, no. The deck would have to be sanded back to the fresh timber and wiped down with Acetone prior to any fibreglass application.

If your flat roof is starting to pond, fear not! In some instances, it may be possible to sand back the existing layer and apply a layer of bodyfiller. The bodyfiller will help to raise the area where the water is pooling and aid water run-off. Once, the bodyfiller has been applied, cured and sanded to suit you will need to wipe the area down with Acetone to remove any contaminants. You may then re-apply the resin, matting and topcoat to ensure your GRP Roof remains watertight.

Provided there is no structural damage to the roof, a new layer of topcoat may be applied. For a cosmetic refresh, simply sand back the existing layer of topcoat and wipe down with acetone. This will prep the area and give the new layer of topcoat something to adhere to. Once prepped, the new layer of Roofing Topcoat can be applied.

In this instance, a fibreglass roof kit may be used to complete the repair. The first step would be to sand back the exisiting surface to expose the fibreglass and then clean with acetone. Measure the amount of fibreglass mat you will need. Cut your new fibreglass mat into strips of an appropriate width for covering over the cracks. Ensure there is an overlap of 50mm either side of the crack. Apply a wet coat of resin to the surface and bed down the new matting. Ensure the glass is completely wet through with resin (it will go transparent). Taking a paddle roller, consolidate the glass and resin ensuring that matting is wet through and well consolidated to surface. There should be no trapped air. Allow to cure. Once cured (min 3 hours), sand back with 80 grit sandpaper to key surface and clean with acetone. Mix topcoat with catalyst and apply. Allow to... Read more

Before starting laminating, ensure that the weather conditions will be acceptable. Do not lay the roof if rain is forecasted. Temperatures should be at least 15°C to allow the resin to cure. If the temperature is too hot (over 25°C) the resin will cure too quickly. Sweep down the roof to remove any debris. We start by bandaging the joints, trims and corners. If you are not using T&G, the joints in the decking should be taped up using masking or any type of tape. This is just to prevent the resin from dripping between the boards. We used T&G so there was no need for this here but we have shown it for demonstration purposes. Glass bandage should be used to strengthen all the joints on the decking and the trims. Measure out the glass bandage roll and cut or tear to length. It is a good idea to lay the bandage out on the roof before rolling it up and placing beside the joints ready to use. Weigh out your resin. Mix 2% catalyst in with the resin. For this, we mixed 0.5kg of resin at a time. Wet out the joint with resin using a paint brush or roller. Roll out the glass tape over the resin. Wet out the glass with more resin, until it is fully saturated. Consolidate with a paddle roller. Ensure there are no pinholes and the mat turns transparent. This should be repeated with the joints in the trims. Wet out the joints with the resin using a paint brush again. The edges of the fibreglass can be frayed or feathered, by pulling at the edges to make the seam less visible on the front trim. This will help with the final appearance. Wet out the glass with a paint brush as before. Consolidate with a paddle roller To fibreglass, the ends of the raised edge roofing trims, cut out a square of fibreglass that covers the area +50mm onto the trim. Cut relief cuts around the top of the fibreglass so that it can be folded smoothly over the top of the trim. Again, wet the glass mat out with a paint brush and consolidate with a paddle roller. The same method should be used on the internal corners. Measure the fibreglass mat to size and cut using a Stanley knife. When joining two pieces of the mat, the edges should overlap by 50mm. To create a less visible seam between the two mats, the edges are frayed by lightly pulling. Mix the resin and catalyst. Place the bucket on the weighing scales and reset the scales. We recommend mixing 2kg at a time. This will be enough to cover 1m2 at room temperature. Add the catalyst to the resin. The recommended rate for adding catalyst is 2% at room temperature. Mix the resin and catalyst thoroughly for at least one minute, It will change colour slightly as the catalyst is mixed through. Use a roller to wet out the OSB board Lay the fibreglass out onto the wet resin. Apply more resin to the glass mat until the glass mat is fully wet out. Consolidate the resin and glass with a paddle roller. Ensure that there are no pin holes. The glass will start to appear transparent at this stage. It is a good idea when working on a larger roof to have one person putting on the resin and the mat and a second person following. Once cured, lightly sand the area with a coarse sandpaper. The roof is now ready for... Read more

If you are looking to put the gully straight out through the wall, you could let it run through the wall and straight into a hopper, or alternatively use a through wall outlet and fix it so that the gully trim runs to it and out through the wall.

Another option is to go with a vertical downpipe roof outlet. Set the gully trim to run into that and the outlet will take the water down into a connecting pipe.

The answer is yes, with a bit of work! Depending on the trim, in most cases you will need to sand the strip of existing fibreglass where the new trim will be placed right back to the board. The new trim can then be fitted. Once the trim is secure a layer of fibreglass will need to applied over the new trim. This will ensure the roof remains water tight.

Whilst we would recommend GRP Trims with a fibreglass roof (the fibreglass will bond better). If you decide to use lead or metal trims, ensure the lead or metal is clean and free from contaminants. Use G4 sealer when overlapping with the fibreglass.

Sand an area of about 50mm around the crack using rough grit sandpaper to create a key. Clean down with acetone. Cut a piece of 450g chopped strand mat the same size as the area sanded. Cut a second piece of 450g chopped strand mat slightly smaller. Mix resin and catalyst. Brush on the resin to the area and apply the larger piece of glass. Applied more resin until the glass is fully wetted out. Apply the second layer of glass and wet out with resin using a brush. Allow the resin to cure. Once cured give the area a light sanding to remove any glass sticking up. Mix topcoat with catalyst and apply to the area with a... Read more

It is recommended that 15mm galvanised clout nail is used or s/s staples that will sit flush with the roof.

Roof trims should be measured and cut to size with a 'snips' (to reduce dust). A dab of roofing adhesive should be applied to the batons to prevent rattling in the wind. Roof trims should then be either stapled with s/s staples of nailed using 15mm clout nails into place every 120-150mm. Where two trims have to be joined together, ensure an overlap of 50mm and apply roofing adhesive to seal.

A drip trim is placed at the lowest edge of the roof and is used to allow the water to runoff into a gutter. A raised edge trim is used to prevent the water runoff.

• A200 is a fascia trim for allowing drainage into a gutter. Compatible with C1 C2 and C4 corner trims
• B260 is a raised edge trim which prevents water runoff. Compatible with C1 C2 and C4 corner trims
• A200 and the B260 are compatible with each other
• A250 and B300 - A250 is a fascia trim for allowing drainage into a gutter & the B300 is a raised edge trim which prevents water runoff

There is a simple formula for calculating the volume for resin required. Simply multiply length (metres) x width (metres) x depth (millimetres). 

In this case - 1.5 metres x 1.5 metres x 5mm = 11.25kg of resin. This method will work for epoxy and polyester calculations.

For river resin tables we would recommend our clear cast epoxy resin as this will be more durable and will have less shrinkage than the polyester version.

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Yes, the Clear Epoxy Resin can stick or adhere to glass.

We would recommend a clear epoxy resin for this purpose as the epoxy has less shrinkage than the polyester version.

Yes, this Resin may be used for casting penneys onto a table. If using a glass table, great care should be taken with regards to the heat which is generated during the curing process to avoid any cracks in the glass. We recommend several pours, ensuring the previous pour is cool to the touch before adding the next pour. The resin will cure tacky, so once cured the top layer will need to be sanded back and compound paste used for shine. A clear lacquer may also be used to prevent scuffs and scratches. We have made a video detailing the process and it is available to watch on our website.

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No, unfortunately, this resin would not have enough scuff or scratch resistance to be used on a floor. 

Yes, this resin is suitable for use with a silicone mould. If there is a lot of detail in the mould, you could use a CIL release spray if required before pouring the resin into the mould.

The Clear Casting Resin will not cure in a uniformed fashion. It will be tacky to the touch with ripples. To remove the tackiness of the cured Clear Casting Resin, you must sand back the top layer starting with a 240 grit sandpaper, working up through 400 to 600 until all bumps or ripples have been removed and the area is totally smooth. To get a shine, use a Farecla Compounding Paste.

Yes, the Water Clear Casting Polyester Resin may be used for making Canvas Micarta (knife handle). Once the resin has adequately cured it can be shaped as required. 

Yes, the Polyester Clear Casting odour has a strong, solvent odour. Therefore, this resin is best used in a well, ventilated area. 

We recommend that up to 10mm of Clear Resin should be poured at any one time before pouring the next layer. If doing multiple pours of clear casting resin, great care should be taken in regards to the heat that is generated with each pour. Before each pour, it is best to ensure the first pour has cooled (and is cool to the touch) before adding the next batch of resin.

The easiest way to repair a Fibreglass Roof on a camper van/caravan?

The best option is to use a Universal Fibreglass/GRP Kit.

This comes with glass matting, resin, topcoat, hardener and tools to apply.

The only additional item required would be acetone which can be bought in 1ltr, 2.5ltr or 5ltr containers. You will need the acetone for cleaning down, once you have scuffed the existing surface prior to applying the new laminate and also once the laminate is cured, again scuff the surface with 80 grit sandpaper and clean with acetone before mixing and applying the new topcoat.

 

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Question:I'd like to buy one of your resin driveway kits. Can you advise why the driveway aggregate comes in two different sizes? (1-3mm and 2-5mm) Answer:If you are going with the Resin Bonded Driveway System (spread resin and scatter aggregate) then you will only need the 1-3mm as it is small enough to stick. If you use any bigger, there is not enough of the stone surface stuck in the resin which will result in stones becoming loose over time. If you go with the Resin Bound Driveway System, which is a fully mixed system, you will require both sizes of the stones to create a tighter bond for laying at 12-18mm thick (12mm min for pathways and 18mm min for driveways). The bounded system is laid thicker therefore it must be porous enough for water to pass through, whilst tight enough not to have big gaps. The 1-3mm and 2-5mm stones will bind together perfectly with the resin to create this bounded... Read more