1. See Detail

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions at FibreGlassDIrect

8 Delivery

Delivery related queries for FibreGlassDirect. If you need to track a parcel or enquire about delivery times check out our FAQ guide.

Yes, we can arrange to have an invoice sent by our accounts department. Please fill in our short contact form with your details and a member of our team will respond without delay. 

We always aim to get your order to you as quickly as possible. Estimated delivery time is 2-3 working days from day of dispatch. Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee next day delivery.

(Product Price + delivery) + VAT at 20% = total cost

The cost of the delivery is calculated according to the weight of the order, the delivery location and the classification of the order (non-hazardous, hazardous and limited quantity). All items are despatched by courier with the exception of small items (non-hazardous items), which are sent via Royal Mail. See the Shipping/Returns page for further information. 

For all orders received, we will endeavour to dispatch your order by the following working day and delivered within 2-3 days. For urgent delivery assistance please contact a member of our sales team direct through email or phone. 

Yes, as most of our products are classed as hazardous they must be signed for. The exception to this is if the customer specifically asks for the goods to be left at an alternative location when making an order which is at their own risk.

Currently, we only ship to Mainland UK, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. If you are looking for fibreglass materials to be shipped to other countries, please contact our team for a quote.

As our goods are considered hazardous, delivery costs overseas are often very expensive. If you prefer you can appoint a courier to collect the goods at any of our depots and arrange your own transportation. 

To track your order, use our order tracking form and we will contact you as soon as possible with an update on your order. 

14 Resin, Catalyst & Laminating

Commonly asked questions on the different types of resins on offer at FibreGlassDirect. 

We would recommend a clear epoxy resin for this purpose as the epoxy has less shrinkage than the polyester version.

Skinning a Kayak with Glassfibre and Resin

There are a couple of different options and finishes that you can opt for when skinning a kayak like this. First of all, you could use a layer of 450g fibreglass matting and a lloyd's approved resin. Once cured you could then apply a standard polyester topcoat. All of these materials are included with our Read more

The second layer can be applied while the first layer is still wet. Not only will you complete your project a lot faster but you will use a lot less resin too!
The shelf life of Catalyst is approximately 6 months. It is important that the catalyst is stored in its original packaging in a cool, dry location away from sunlight. As Catalyst is an extremely flammable chemical, it is important to refer to MSDS and TDS sheets before use.
Unfortunately, Polyester Resin cannot be used on Polystyrene as it will eat into it! An Epoxy Resin would be better suited for this application.
None of our Polyester Resins / Topcoats on FibreGlassDirect require a wax additive to harden. Catalyst is the only thing required and this is supplied with all Resins.
We would recommend our Lloyd's Approved Resin, this would be a good general purpose resin suitable for this purpose.

We recommend that up to 10mm of Clear Resin should be poured at any one time before pouring the next layer. If doing multiple pours of clear casting resin, great care should be taken in regards to the heat that is generated with each pour. Before each pour, it is best to ensure the first pour has cooled (and is cool to the touch) before adding the next batch of resin.

Yes, all Resins, Topcoats and Gelcoats sold by FibreGlassDirect are supplied with sufficient catalyst. 

We would recommend priming the lead with a G4 Damp Seal first. G4 should be thinly applied with a brush or roller and allowed to tack before applying the resin and chopped strand matting. 


When it first comes it is fully sealed so you snap off the top. The outside is threaded so if you flip the cap you will see the threads are on the opposite side. The cap will screw back on then to re-seal. 


Our Low-Cost General Purpose Resin is a re-blended resin which is suitable for non-critical DIY repairs (such as downpipe repairs etc.) Lloyds Approved Resin is a higher quality Polyester Resin which has been tested and approved by the Lloyds Register. It can be used for potable water storage projects, marine, pond and boat repairs. It is also WRAS Approved. Both are polyester resins.

How much catalyst do I need to add to resin?

For most resins, add 2% by weight, i.e. 1kg of resin requires 20g of Catalyst (based on room temperature). Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator For Clear Casting Resin the catalyst addition is 1%.  

For colder conditions, more catalyst may need to be mixed into the resin to ensure a cure. In the winter months, our Roofing Kits will increase from 2% catalyst addition to 3%. Likewise, in warmer climates, less catalyst may be needed (or smaller batches mixed) as... Read more

How much Resin do I need?

Work out how much Glass you have by weight and multiply by 2.5. i.e. for 2kg of fibreglass mat, you will require 5kg of resin. Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator. Roofing applications may require more resin if the resin is applied to OSB3 boards as the boards will soak more resin. Our Read more

7 Gelcoat / Topcoat

Understand the differences between Topcoat & Gelcoat, application details and characteristics. 

The expected coverage of the Standard Polyester Topcoat and Gelcoat is 500g per square metre.

This depends on the type of mould you are trying to make (male or female). In this case it sounds like you need a gelcoat rather than a topcoat. Please refer to our guide on making a mould which will detail the mould making process.

To answer this question in a lot of detail, we have created a comprehensive guide in our how-to section which is available to read on our website.

If the area has an old layer of Topcoat which you wish to refresh there is no need to prime the area with a product such as G4 for example. You will, however, need to sand down the area, wipe down with Acetone and reapply a new layer of Topcoat/GRP materials if required.

When applying a topcoat after laminating, apply between 500 and 550g per m². Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator. For Fibreglass Roofing applications, this should increase to 600g per m².

When applying Gelocat to a mould, apply between 500 and 550g per m². Alternatively, use our Materials Quantity Calculator

Gelcoat is not a finishing coat; it is painted onto moulds/plugs and remains tacky after it cures. Resin and Glass are generally applied on top of the Gelcoat. It forms the hard, smooth shiny surface of the finished article and is usually pigmented. It paints on easily but does not drain from vertical surfaces. Use Topcoat if a finishing paint is... Read more

2 Fibreglass Pond Lining

If you are planning on lining a pond using fibreglass, check out our expert answers to frequently asked questions. 

We have written down our top tips on adding a fibreglass lining to a concrete pond. These comprehensive guidelines will ensure you get the best results from your materials. Read about it here. 

Use our pond calculator to calculate the surface area of your pond. You should then buy the next available size, so say for example your Pond Surface Area is 18m², you should buy a 20m² kit. For a full range of our Pond kits click here

4 Fibreglass Roofing

All of your questions in relation to Fibreglass Roofing answered here at FibreGlassDirect. Expert answers on all aspects of application including trims, topcoat and the laminating process. 

If your flat roof is starting to pond, fear not! In some instances, it may be possible to sand back the existing layer and apply a layer of bodyfiller. The bodyfiller will help to raise the area where the water is pooling and aid water run-off. Once, the bodyfiller has been applied, cured and sanded to suit you will need to wipe the area down with Acetone to remove any contaminants. You may then re-apply the resin, matting and topcoat to ensure your GRP Roof remains watertight.
Provided there is no structural damage to the roof, a new layer of topcoat may be applied. For a cosmetic refresh, simply sand back the existing layer of topcoat and wipe down with acetone. This will prep the area and give the new layer of topcoat something to adhere to. Once prepped, the new layer of Roofing Topcoat can be applied.

In this instance, a fibreglass roof kit may be used to complete the repair. The first step would be to sand back the exisiting surface to expose the fibreglass and then clean with acetone. Measure the amount of fibreglass mat you will need.

Cut your new fibreglass mat into strips of an appropriate width for covering over the cracks. Ensure there is an overlap of 50mm either side of the crack.

Apply a wet coat of resin to the surface and bed down the new matting. Ensure the glass is completely wet through with resin (it will go transparent).

Taking a paddle roller,... Read more

Laminating a Fibreglass Roof

Before starting laminating, ensure that the weather conditions will be acceptable. Do not lay the roof if rain is forecasted. Temperatures should be at least 15°C to allow the resin to cure. If the temperature is too hot (over 25°C) the resin will cure too quickly.

  • Sweep down the roof to remove any debris. We start by bandaging the joints, trims and corners.
  • If you are not using T&G,... Read more

7 Roofing Trims

The answer is yes, with a bit of work! Depending on the trim, in most cases you will need to sand the strip of existing fibreglass where the new trim will be placed right back to the board. The new trim can then be fitted. Once the trim is secure a layer of fibreglass will need to applied over the new trim. This will ensure the roof remains water tight.

Whilst we would recommend GRP Trims with a fibreglass roof (the fibreglass will bond better). If you decide to use lead or metal trims, ensure the lead or metal is clean and free from contaminants. Use G4 sealer when overlapping with the fibreglass.

Fixing a crack in a GRP Roof Trim

  • Sand an area of about 50mm around the crack using rough grit sandpaper to create a key. Clean down with acetone.
  • Cut a piece of 450g chopped strand mat the same size as the area sanded. Cut a second piece of 450g chopped strand mat slightly smaller.
  • Mix resin and catalyst. Brush on the resin to the area and apply the larger piece of glass. Applied more resin until the glass is fully wetted out. Apply the second layer of glass and wet out with resin using a brush. Allow the resin to cure.
  • Once cured give the... Read more

It is recommended that 15mm galvanised clout nail is used or s/s staples that will sit flush with the roof.

Roof trims should be measured and cut to size with a 'snips' (to reduce dust). A dab of roofing adhesive should be applied to the batons to prevent rattling in the wind. Roof trims should then be either stapled with s/s staples of nailed using 15mm clout nails into place every 120-150mm. Where two trims have to be joined together, ensure an overlap of 50mm and apply roofing adhesive to seal.

A drip trim is placed at the lowest edge of the roof and is used to allow the water to runoff into a gutter. A raised edge trim is used to prevent the water runoff.

The following trims are compatible with each other
  • A200 is a fascia trim for allowing drainage into a gutter. Compatible with C1 C2 and C4 corner trims
  • B260 is a raised edge trim which prevents water runoff. Compatible with C1 C2 and C4 corner trims
  • A200 and the B260 are compatible with each other
  • A250 and B300 - A250 is a fascia trim for allowing drainage into a gutter & the B300 is a raised edge trim which prevents water runoff

9 Clear Casting Resin

Some of the answers to our best-selling Water Clear Casting Resin. Curing times, pours and characteristics. 

Yes, the Clear Epoxy Resin can stick or adhere to glass.
We would recommend a clear epoxy resin for this purpose as the epoxy has less shrinkage than the polyester version.

Yes, this Resin may be used for casting penneys onto a table. If using a glass table, great care should be taken with regards to the heat which is generated during the curing process to avoid any cracks in the glass. We recommend several pours, ensuring the previous pour is cool to the touch before adding the next pour. The resin will cure tacky, so once cured the top layer will need to be sanded back and compound paste used for shine. A clear lacquer may also be used to prevent scuffs and scratches. We have made a video detailing the process and it isRead more

No, unfortunately, this resin would not have enough scuff or scratch resistance to be used on a floor. 

Yes, this resin is suitable for use with a silicone mould. If there is a lot of detail in the mould, you could use a CIL release spray if required before pouring the resin into the mould.

The Clear Casting Resin will not cure in a uniformed fashion. It will be tacky to the touch with ripples. To remove the tackiness of the cured Clear Casting Resin, you must sand back the top layer starting with a 240 grit sandpaper, working up through 400 to 600 until all bumps or ripples have been removed and the area is totally smooth. To get a shine, use a Farecla Compounding Paste.

Yes, the Water Clear Casting Polyester Resin may be used for making Canvas Micarta (knife handle). Once the resin has adequately cured it can be shaped as required. 

Yes, the Polyester Clear Casting odour has a strong, solvent odour. Therefore, this resin is best used in a well, ventilated area. 

We recommend that up to 10mm of Clear Resin should be poured at any one time before pouring the next layer. If doing multiple pours of clear casting resin, great care should be taken in regards to the heat that is generated with each pour. Before each pour, it is best to ensure the first pour has cooled (and is cool to the touch) before adding the next batch of resin.